Hands-On: A Guide to Technical Handwear
A Quick Dive into the Essential Gear, Maintenance, and Safety Protocols to Keep You High-Fiving Strong All Season Long.
Every rider knows the frustration of frozen, aching hands. Your hands are your connection to the mountain, but choosing the right protection can be a confusing maze of technical terms and features. This guide keenly cuts through the noise to help you understand the different types of handwear, the technologies that keep you warm and dry, essential maintenance tips, and crucial safety protocols to ensure your hands stay happy, no matter the conditions.
Mitts vs. Gloves vs. Three-Fingers: Which is Right (and Left) for You?
The first and most fundamental decision in hand protection is the style, which directly impacts the balance between warmth and dexterity.
Gloves (Maximum Dexterity): This style is best for riders who need precise finger articulation. Park riders and anyone who frequently adjusts bindings, zips pockets, or uses a camera will benefit from gloves. The trade-off is warmth; since each finger is separated, gloves are the coldest option because they increase the surface area exposed to the cold and prevent fingers from sharing heat.
Mitts (Maximum Warmth): Mittens are the warmest choice and are ideal for powder or extremely cold days or for those who suffer from chronically cold hands. They work by grouping your fingers together, allowing them to share body heat and reducing the overall surface area for heat loss. However, mitts offer virtually zero dexterity, making simple tasks a challenge.
Three-Finger / Lobster Mitts (The Compromise): This style offers an excellent middle ground. By separating the thumb and index finger while keeping the other three together, it provides more warmth than a glove while retaining the essential ability to grip and grab. This is a popular choice for shreds who want warmth without completely sacrificing the ability to handle the basic operative functions on-hill.
The Innovation: Hand Out Technology
One of the most significant innovations in recent years comes from Deathgrip Glove Co., a brand built to solve the common problem of exposing your hands to the elements every time you need to perform a task.
Their proprietary Hand Out Technology features a completely waterproof zipper that runs across the top of the hand. This allows you to quickly and easily slide your entire hand out to perform a task—like adjusting a binding or using your phone—without ever having to fully remove the glove. The glove remains attached to your wrist, preventing heat loss and fumbling, and you can instantly slide your hand back in for warmth.
Deathgrip’s product line is broken down by monster-themed aesthetic and rugged intended use:
The Zombie Collection: Designed for deep winter, featuring premium leather and maximum insulation for the absolute coldest days.
The Werewolf Collection: A versatile, all-around workhorse that uses a balanced blend of materials for reliable performance in all conditions.
The Ghoul Collection: The lightest option, focused on dexterity for warmer days and technical park riding.
The Tech Stack: Membranes, Insulation, and Waterproofing
Understanding what’s inside your handwear is crucial for performance. High-quality handwear relies on three core technologies: the outer shell, the waterproof membrane, and the insulation.
The Waterproof/Breathable Barrier (Membranes)
The membrane is a thin layer between the outer shell and the insulation. Its job is to act as a one-way street, keeping water molecules (snow, rain) out while allowing smaller vapor molecules (sweat) to escape.
Gore-Tex: Widely considered the industry standard for its exceptional and durable waterproofness, breathability, and windproofing. A Gore-Tex membrane offers guaranteed performance and longevity.
Proprietary Membranes: These are house-brand names from various companies (e.g., DryVent, Omni-Tech). They are generally more affordable and offer very good performance, making them an excellent value for everyday use.
Insulation: Synthetic vs. Down
Insulation creates loft—trapped air pockets that are warmed by your body heat. The choice between insulation types affects how the handwear performs in different environments.
Synthetic (Primaloft, Thinsulate): The overwhelming choice for snowboarding. It’s the superior option for wet environments because it retains loft and warmth even when damp and dries quickly.
Down (Goose or Duck): Highest warmth-to-weight ratio, but rarely used in snowboarding gear. It’s only suitable for extreme, dry cold (like high-altitude mountaineering) because it fails completely when wet, losing all insulating power.
The DWR Distinction (Shell vs. Membrane)
Many riders confuse these two layers of waterproofing, which can lead to poor maintenance.
DWR (Durable Water Repellent): This is a coating on the outside of the shell fabric that makes water bead up and roll off. When the DWR wears off, the fabric looks dark and saturated (”wets out”). The glove is still waterproof due to the membrane, but its breathability is compromised, making it feel heavy and cold. You can restore a DWR coating with a spray-on or wash-in treatment.
Waterproof Membrane: This is the internal layer (e.g., Gore-Tex). It is the final waterproof barrier. If the glove is actually leaking water into the insulation, the membrane has failed and the glove needs to be replaced.
Cuffs, Leashes, and Features
Over-Glove (Gauntlet) vs. Under-Glove (Cuff)
This key design choice dictates how the glove interacts with your jacket sleeve and overall storm protection.
Over-Glove: The cuff extends past the wrist and fits over the jacket sleeve. This creates a sealed barrier against snow and is ideal for pow days, especially.
Under-Glove: The cuff is short and fits neatly under the jacket sleeve. It’s sleek and comfortable but more susceptible to snow entering the glove, especially during falls.
Essential On-Glove Features
The quality of a technical glove is often in the details:
Nose Wipe: A soft, suede patch on the back of the thumb for wiping a runny nose without irritating your skin.
Goggle Squeegee: A thin, flexible blade on the index finger to wipe water or snow off your goggle lens.
Pockets: Small zippered pockets on the cuff can hold a lift pass for easy scanning or a hand warmer for extra warmth.
The Controversial Leash
Glove leashes (or wrist loops) are the straps that connect your handwear to your wrists. Many riders hate them and cut them off, but their utility makes them an essential piece of safety equipment. The leash prevents you from dropping an expensive glove from a chairlift. It also keeps your glove close and ready for you to slip your hand back in, preventing unnecessary cold exposure when you need to perform a quick task.
*Now if you opt not to engage this seemingly superfluous dangler … never place your gloves / mitts on your lap, the chair seat next to your, or in your mouth. The safest and warmest securement method is to tuck them tightly between your thighs while seated. This utilizes body heat to keep the insulation warm and provides two secure points of contact to prevent them from slipping.
Emergency Solutions and Handwear Care
If you find yourself on the mountain without your gloves, here are some quick fixes:
Hit up the lost and found: Most of what they’ve got never gets claimed by its original owner. When you go, describe your gloves as ambiguous and generally generic as possible. This tactic increases the chance they’ll hand over a suitable glove—whether it’s technically yours or just a perfectly good replacement. It’s a resourceful dirt move and good on you for thinking that way.
DIY Insulation: An extra pair of wool socks can be used as temporary mittens. You can also pull your jacket sleeves as far down as possible and cinch the cuffs around your palms.
The Low-Cost Buy: Instead of paying high prices at resort retail, check a nearby gas station or drug store for cheap thermal work gloves.
The Ultimate Drying Guide
Never use intense, direct heat to dry your technical handwear. High heat will damage the waterproof membrane, melt adhesives, and cause leather to crack irreversibly. The goal is warm air circulation, not high heat exposure.
Boot Dryer: The most ideal method. Use the low-heat or ambient air setting to gently and evenly dry your gloves.
Fan Ventilation: Place the gloves upside down over an open container of sorts and position them in front of a slow-moving fan. This is the safest but slowest method.
Radiator/Heat Register: Place the gloves next to—but not on—a low-temperature heat source. Direct contact will cause damage.
If your gloves have leather palms, remember to apply a leather-specific wax or balm every 5-10 uses to replenish the natural oils and prevent cracking.
When to Replace Your Handwear
The average lifespan of a quality pair of gloves is 3 to 5 years of moderate use. It’s time to replace them when they show irreversible signs of failure, even after proper reconditioning. Look for these signs:
Complete Waterproofing Failure: Water is leaking through the internal membrane and soaking the insulation.
Insulation Clumping or Compacting: The insulation is no longer evenly distributed, creating major cold spots.
Seam Blowouts: The stitching is coming apart, compromising the glove’s structure.
Palm Degradation: The palm material has holes, large tears, or has become extremely cracked and stiff.
The Cold Hand Protocol: What to Do When Your Fingers Still Freeze
When your hands are cold despite having warm gloves, the issue is almost always circulation, not the gear. Your body restricts blood flow to your extremities to keep your core warm.
Systemic Fixes: Warm your core first. Add a mid-layer to your torso, cover your head to prevent heat loss, and hydrate and eat a snack to give your body the energy to generate heat.
Hand Warmer Placement: Don’t just toss a hand warmer in the palm. Place it on the back of your wrist or hand, where the arteries are closer to the surface. Warming the blood before it gets to your fingers is far more effective.
The Circulation Trick (The Windmill): If your hands are stinging, remove them from your gloves. And while standing safely on flat ground, make a loose fist and perform a fast, wide-radius circle with your arm for about 10–15 seconds to push warm blood rapidly into your capillaries.
Recognizing and Responding to Frostbite
Frostbite is a serious injury that occurs when skin and underlying tissues freeze. Early detection is critical to prevent permanent damage.
Frostnip (Mild): The skin is red and may sting or feel numb. It’s easily reversible with immediate re-warming and causes no permanent damage.
Superficial Frostbite: The skin feels waxy and hard and turns white or mottled blue/gray. The tissue underneath is still soft. Blisters will form upon thawing.
Deep Frostbite (Severe): The area is hard, cold, and completely numb. The skin may appear black. This is a medical emergency that requires immediate transport to a hospital.
DOs and DON’Ts of Frostbite:
DOs: Cover the area and get to shelter, use body heat for re-warming (e.g., hands in armpits), and remove jewelry before swelling.
DON’Ts: Do not rub the area with snow or your hands. Do not use direct heat from a fire or heater. Do not attempt to thaw the area if there is a risk of it re-freezing before you reach medical aid.
Choosing the Right Snow Brand
Brands often specialize in different areas, catering to freestyle or all-mountain utility. Understanding a brand’s focus helps you choose the right balance of features, durability, and style.
All-Mountain / Utility Brands
These are trusted, widely available brands that offer a reliable blend of useful features, performance, and competitive pricing. They focus on gear that performs well across the mountain for the average rider. They strike a great balance between value and quality. Key examples include Dakine, Burton, and 686.
Freestyle / Rider-Focused Brands
This segment puts the emphasis on style, fit, and utility for the park and street. They often feature creative designs, softer materials, and looser fits. These are often rider-owned or strongly associated with jib culture. Look at brands like Howl Supply, Crab Grab, Salmon Arms, and POW Gloves.
The Verdict
We’ve covered everything from the internal technology of waterproof membranes to practical chairlift hacks, essential maintenance tips, and the critical steps for recognizing frostbite. The primary takeaway is simple: invest in the best handwear you can afford, and learn how to care for it—the Hand Out Technology on Deathgrip gear eliminates the cold-vs-dexterity compromise entirely. While the bare-handed exploits of legends like Jamie Lynn are iconic, remember … you’re totally not him, and that means being prepared and safe. Now that you know the difference between a failed DWR and a failed membrane, and where to put that hand warmer for maximum blood flow, you’re ready to face any weather condition with confidence.
If you take one piece of advice from this entire guide, it’s this: You must own a backup pair. This isn’t about luxury; it’s about safety. The enemy is moisture; once your primary gloves get saturated, their insulation collapses, and your hands will freeze. A dry backup pair is your only insurance against losing a glove or against the debilitating effect of wet insulation. Keep a dry, waterproof backup pair wrapped in a plastic bag in your car, ready for a mid-day swap or an emergency.
Get out there, stay warm, and always enjoy the ride!
